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Lonely Planet - Greece (Travel Guide) (2016)

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Publicado: 2019-05-08

Lonely Planet - Greece (Travel Guide) (2016) Greece PDF ebook Edition 12th Edition Release Date March 2016 Pages 752 Useful Links Want more guides? Head to our shop Trouble with your PDF? Trouble shoot here Need more help? Head to our FAQs Stay in touch Contact us here PD F PD F ©LonelyPlanetPublicationsPtyLtd.Tomakeiteasierforyoutouse,accesstothisPDFebookisnotdigitallyrestricted.Inreturn,wethinkit'sfairto askyoutouseitforpersonal,non-commercialpurposesonly.Inotherwords,pleasedon'tuploadthischaptertoapeer-to-peersite,massemailitto everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above – 'Do the right thing with our content'. t Tube m Metro b Subway X U-Bahn These symbols and abbreviations give vital information for each listing: Must-visit recommendation Sustainable or green recommendation No payment required All reviews are ordered in our authors' preference, starting with their most preferred option. Additionally: Sights are arranged in the geographic order that we suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author preference. Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these ranges, by author preference. % Telephone number h Opening hours p Parking n Nonsmoking a Air-conditioning i Internet access W Wi-fi access s Swimming pool v Vegetarian selection E English-language menu c Family-friendly # Pet-friendly g Bus f Ferry j Tram d Train apt apartments d double rooms dm dorm beds q quad rooms r rooms s single rooms ste suites tr triple rooms tw twin rooms For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend. Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings: How to Use This Book 1 Sights r Beaches 2 Activities C Courses T Tours z Festivals & Events 4 Sleeping 5 Eating 6 Drinking 3 Entertainment 7 Shopping 8 Information & Transport 4easy-to-use sections PLAN YOUR TRIP Your planning tool kit Photos & suggestions to help you create the perfect trip. 1 ON THE ROAD Your complete guide Expert reviews, easy-to-use maps & insider tips. 2 UNDERSTAND Get more from your trip Learn about the big picture, to make sense of what you see. 3 SURVIVAL GUIDE Your at-a-glance reference Vital practical information for a smooth trip. 4 PLAN YOUR TRIP Your planning tool kit Photos & suggestions to help you create the perfect trip. 1 THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Korina Miller, Kate Armstrong, Alexis Averbuck, Carolyn Bain, Michael Stamatios Clark, Anita Isalska, Anna Kaminski, Greg Ward, Richard Waters Greece Cyclades (p314) Crete (p414) Peloponnese (p128) Ionian Islands (p632) Northeastern Aegean Islands (p546) Evia & the Sporades (p606) Saronic Gulf Islands (p294) Dodecanese (p470) Northern Greece (p228) Central Greece (p186) Athens & Around (p56) ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Welcome to Greece. . . . . . 4 Greece's Top 20 . . . . . . . . . 8 Need to Know. . . . . . . . . . 18 First Time Greece. . . . . . . 20 If You Like…. . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Month by Month. . . . . . . . 24 Itineraries. . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Island Hopping. . . . . . . . . 30 Cruising. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Eat & Drink Like a Local. . . 39 Outdoor Activities. . . . . . 45 Travel with Children. . . . . 49 Regions at a Glance. . . . . 52 ATHENS & AROUND . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Athens. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Athens Ports. . . . . . . . . . 118 Around Athens. . . . . . . . 122 PELOPONNESE. . . . . 128 Corinthia. . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 Argolis. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 Arkadia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 Lakonia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148 The Mani . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157 Messinia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 Olympia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173 Achaïa. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179 CENTRAL GREECE. . . . . . . . . . . 186 Delphi & Sterea Ellada. 187 Meteora & Thessaly. . . 205 NORTHERN GREECE. . . . . . . . . . . 228 Macedonia. . . . . . . . . . . . 231 Thrace . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266 Epiros. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 277 SARONIC GULF ISLANDS. . . . . . . . . . 294 Aegina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 296 Angistri . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300 Poros . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301 Hydra. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303 Spetses . . . . . . . . . . . . . 309 CYCLADES. . . . . . . . . 314 Andros. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317 Tinos. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321 Syros . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 326 Mykonos. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 331 Delos. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 341 Paros . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 342 Antiparos. . . . . . . . . . . . 350 Naxos. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 351 Small Cyclades. . . . . . . . 363 Amorgos. . . . . . . . . . . . . 369 Ios. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 374 Santorini (Thira). . . . . . . 378 Anafi. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 390 Sikinos. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 392 Folegandros. . . . . . . . . . . 393 Milos. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 397 Kimolos. . . . . . . . . . . . . 402 Sifnos. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 402 Serifos. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 406 Kythnos. . . . . . . . . . . . . 409 Kea (Tzia). . . . . . . . . . . . . 411 PHILARTPHACE/GETTYIMAGES© SPILI P442 GKISAKIS/GETTYIMAGES© PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD TUUL/GETTYIMAGES© TEMPLE OF APOLLO, NAXOS P353 WALTERBIBIKOW/GETTYIMAGES© VIKOS GORGE P284NISYROS VOLCANO P511 Contents CRETE . . . . . . . . . . . . 414 Central Crete. . . . . . . . . . 418 Northwest Crete. . . . . . 445 Southwest Coast . . . . . 453 Eastern Crete. . . . . . . . 460 DODECANESE. . . . . . 470 Rhodes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 473 Halki. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 489 Karpathos. . . . . . . . . . . . 491 Kasos. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 496 Kastellorizo (Megisti) . . . . . . . . . . . . 498 Symi. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 500 Tilos. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 504 Nisyros. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 508 Kos. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 512 Astypalea. . . . . . . . . . . . 520 Kalymnos. . . . . . . . . . . . . 524 Leros. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 530 Patmos. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 535 Lipsi. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 540 Arki & Marathi . . . . . . . 543 Agathonisi. . . . . . . . . . . 544 NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS. . . . . . . . . . 546 Ikaria & the Fourni Islands. . . . . . . . 548 Samos. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 558 Chios. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 569 Inousses. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 576 Psara. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 577 Lesvos (Mytilini). . . . . . . 579 Limnos. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 591 Agios Efstratios. . . . . . . 595 Samothraki. . . . . . . . . . . 596 Thasos. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 600 EVIA & THE SPORADES. . . . . . . 606 Evia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 608 The Sporades. . . . . . . . . 614 IONIAN ISLANDS. . . 632 Corfu. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 634 Paxi. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 646 Antipaxi . . . . . . . . . . . . 649 Lefkada . . . . . . . . . . . . . 649 Meganisi. . . . . . . . . . . . . 654 Kefallonia. . . . . . . . . . . . . 655 Ithaki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 662 Zakynthos. . . . . . . . . . . 665 Kythira. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 669 Antikythira . . . . . . . . . . . 674 Greece Today. . . . . . . . . . 676 History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 678 Ancient Greek Culture. . 694 The Greek Way of Life. . . 698 The Arts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 701 Architecture . . . . . . . . . . 706 Nature & Wildlife. . . . . . 711 Directory A–Z. . . . . . . . . 716 Transport. . . . . . . . . . . . . 724 Language. . . . . . . . . . . . . 734 Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 741 Map Legend. . . . . . . . . . . 750 SURVIVAL GUIDE UNDERSTAND SPECIAL FEATURES 3D Acropolis Illustration . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Byzantine Athens. . . . . . . 78 The Olympic Games. . . . 174 3D Delphi Illustration. . 190 3D Palace of Knossos Illustration . . . . . . . . . . . 428 The modern Olympic Games were instituted in 1896 and, except during WWI and WWII, have been held every four years around the world ever since. The Olympic flame is lit at the ancient site and carried by runners to the city where the Games are held. Scandal & Controversies Throughout history the Olympics has been marred by scandals. These range from the farcical – Emperor Nero entering the chariot race in AD 67 with 10 horses, ordering that other competitors could only have four, falling off and still being declared winner – to the serious, including Israeli athletes being murdered by Palestinian group Black September in 1972, and Hitler refusing to award gold medals to African American sprinter Jesse Owens in 1936. The Olympic Games The Olympic Games were undoubtedly the ancient world's biggest sporting event and remain for most athletes today the biggest of dreams. Then, as now, the Games made warring states temporarily halt their squabbles, and victorious competitors won great fame and considerable fortune. Origins of the Games Some Ancient Greek texts attribute the founding of the Games to the hero Pelops; others name Hercules as the founder who made Zeus the patron god of the Olympic sanctuary. The first official quadrennial Olympic Games were declared in 776 BC by King Iphitos of Elis, took place around the first full moon in August, reaching the height of their prestige in 576 BC. During the ancient Games, writers, poets and historians read their works to large audiences; traders clinched business deals; and city-state leaders attempted to resolve differences through diplomacy. Olympic Qualications In Ancient Greece only free-born Greek males were allowed to compete in the Games; the Romans changed the rules to include Roman citizens. Slaves and women were not allowed to enter the Olympic sanctuary even as spectators; women trying to sneak in were thrown from Mt Typaion. Today's Summer Olympics includes athletes from 204 countries, with 88 countries competing in the Winter Olympics. Demise & Rebirth During Roman times the Games declined. Held for the last time in AD 393, they were banned by Emperor Theodosius I as part of a purge of pagan festivals. 175 /GETTYIMAGES© /GETTYIMAGES© 1. Wall mural depicting athletes 2. Lighting the ame at a modern Olympic Games ceremony held in Ancient Olympia 3. Athens 2004 Olympic Games site /GETTYIMAGES© 174 ANCIENT OLYMPICS VS MODERN OLYMPICS  Contemporary opening ceremonies may involve such displays as James Bond parachuting in. In Ancient Greece, it was all about sacrificing oxen to Zeus.  Ancient Greek events included wrestling, chariot and horse racing, the pentathlon (three foot races, the long jump and the discus), javelin, boxing and pankration (few-holds-barred fighting). Today's Summer Olympics have been joined by the Winter Olympics; a total of 56 events across both games include modified sprinting, equestrian, boxing and wrestling.  Victorious ancient Olympians were crowned with sacred olive branches and enjoyed tax exemption and other privi- leges. Modern Olympians receive medals, TV fame and sponsorship fortune. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Naturally Inviting It's easy to understand how so many myths of gods and giants originated in this vast and varied landscape, with wide open skies and a sea speckled with islands, where days melt from one to the next while you relish the white-sand and palm-fringed beaches. Greece is a magnet for anyone who enjoys the great outdoors. Wander along cobbled, Byzantine footpaths, hike into volcanoes, watch for dolphins and sea turtles, and cycle through lush forests. Discover world- class kitesurfing, diving and rock-climbing locations or simply hop on a boat and set sail into the glittering blue beyond. Culturally Rich Step into the ring where Olympic athletes competed. Gaze at Meteora's monaster- ies, perched atop towering rock pinnacles. Contemplate the oracle's insights from the grandeur of Delphi or take in a starlit drama at an ancient outdoor theatre. In the most unexpected places, you'll encounter thought- provoking modern art, the melancholic throb of rembetika (blues songs) and collec- tions of ancient marble sculptures dredged up from beneath the Aegean. Greece bal- ances its past, present and future in a way managed by few other countries. The result is a nation with endless cultural pursuits. Sumptuous Feasting Greeks pride themselves on their cuisine and will go out of their way to ensure you are well fed. The tang of homemade tzatziki and the aroma of souvlaki grilling are just the beginning. Taste test your way through regional cheeses – from crumbling feta to honeyed soft cheeses and sharp, hard rounds. Dig into rich layers of mousakas and sip crisp wine from grapes ripened un- der the hot Mediterranean sun. The Italian legacy of pasta is paired with Greek speciali- ties like lobster, while Turkish spices find their way into delicate sweets. Mussels are steamed in ouzo, bread is baked with olives and fish is cooked straight from the sea. Socially Spirited Greeks are truly social beings. Their fami- lies are extended and they are quick to wel- come in newcomers, whether for a coffee, a shot of ouzo, a chorus on the bouzouki or a heated debate. Greeks are passionate, if nothing else, and this passion continues to drive society forward despite the cur- rent economic turmoil. Life is lived to the fullest, even at the most difficult of times, and herein lies the secret of how a country, seemingly riddled with challenges, is full of people who remain so in love with life. Welcome to Greece Endless miles of aquamarine coastline, sun-bleached ancient ruins, strong feta and stronger ouzo – the Greek landscape thrills, and the Greek people are passionate about politics, coffee, art and gossiping. 4 TOBAGO77/GETTYIMAGES© Why I Love Greece By Korina Miller, Author I first visited Greece as an 18-year-old, sleeping on the decks of slow-moving ferries, living on olives and feta, and constantly salt-crusted from swimming in the deep blue Aegean. But it was a starlit performance at the 3rd-century-BC Theatre of Epidavros that sealed my love of the country. Watching the ancient Greek drama unfold before me as I sat on stone seats worn smooth by thousands of years of use, I felt caught in a moment that seemed to sidestep time. I love Greece because magical moments like that one aren't so hard to find here. For more about our authors, see page 752 5 Above: Little Venice (p334), Hora (Mykonos) R R R R R R ww ww #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #] #\ #\ #\ #] #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\#\ #\ #\ #\ #_ #] #\ #\ #] #\ #] #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #] #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #_ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #] #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\#\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #ä #Ü #ä ITALY GREECE MACEDONIA (FYROM) ALBANIA KOSOVO Hydra Skiathos Poros Antikythira Spetses Kefallonia Corfu Zakynthos Lefkada Kythira Evia Ithaki Skopelos Aegina Alonnisos Ionian Sea Kotor Adriatic Sea ALBANIA PELOPONNESE ATTICA STEREA ELLADA EPIROS THESSALY Kassandra Peninsula IONIAN ISLANDS Sporades Pelion Peninsula MACEDONIA Halkidiki Myrtoön Sea Gulf of Kassandra Lakonian Gulf Gulf of Corinth Saronic Gulf MEDITERRANEAN SEA Lake Kremasta Lake Aliakmonas Lake Koman Lake Fierza Lake Shkodra Be liDri Evros ( Maja e Paces Mt Olympus Mt Vodno Mj e Jezerces Mt Lovcen Mt Iti Mt Parintha Mt Parnassos 42°N42°N 21°E 20°E 39°N 18° 42°N 41°N 38°N 37°N 36°N 35°N 22°E 23°E 19°E 19°E Kyparissia Nafpaktos Kotas Sami Diakofto Tirnavos Mycenae Olympia Delphi Mystras Loutraki Perahora Nafplio Areopoli Pylos Monemvasia Piraeus Kalambaka Gythio Mytikas Marathon Rafina Sagiada Kakavia Mertziani Lavrio Agios Konstantinos Kalamata Neapoli Paleohora Geraki Epidavros Kristallopigi KylliniAgios Nikolaos Parga Karpenisi Megalopoli Volos Trikala Giannitsa Kastoria Larissa Argostoli Arta Kalamaria Messolongi Corfu Town (Kerkyra) Florina Patra Ioannina Kilkis Sparta Edessa AmaliadaZakynthos Town Alexandria Lefkada Town Veria Naoussa Lamia Karditsa Kozani Katerini Pyrgos Preveza Igoumenitsa Agrinio Ptolemaida Thessaloniki Drama Serres Corinth Tripoli TIRANA ATHENS Thiva (Thebes) Litohoro Konitsa Metsovo Exohi Promahonas Doïrani Evzoni Niki Vergina Ancient Delphi Meteora #\ #_ The Mani Steeped in Maniot culture and perfect for hiking (p157) Corfu Town Stunning multicultural seaside architecture (p637) Samaria Gorge Carved between unending towering cliffs (p454) Acropolis The most iconic monument of ancient Greece (p63) Ancient Delphi Where mythology and history meet (p189) Meteora Soaring rock pinnacles topped with monasteries (p221) The Zagorohoria Charming stone and slate mountain villages (p283) Thessaloniki Greece's dynamic second city (p231) Greece #\ #] #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #] #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #\ #ä#Ü TURKEY Serifos Sifnos Kimolos Sikinos Folegandros Little Cyclades Donousa Nisyros Fourni Islands Halki Saria DODECANESE Agios Efstratios Gavdos BULGARIA Samothraki Antiparos Psara Rhodes Anafi Patmos Chios Imvros (Gökçeada) Limnos Samos Naxos Kastellorizo (Megisti) Thasos Andros Karpathos Kos Ikaria Skyros Crete Tinos Paros Milos Kea Amorgos Kalymnos Ios Kythnos Astypalea Mykonos Syros Santorini (Thira) Kasos Tilos Leros Lesvos Delos Symi Datça Peninsula Gallipoli Peninsula Aegean Sea Black Sea (Karadenız) Sea of Marmara NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS CYCLADES THRACE Sea of Crete Karpathian Sea Thracian Sea MEDITERRANEAN SEA The Dardanelles Aegean Sea s (Maritsa) 37°N 39°N E 29°E E 27°E 28°E 26°E 24°E 42°N 42°N 42°N 40°N 38°N 26°E 36°N 28°E 29°E Nea Styra Çeşme Matala Ierapetra Rethymno Sitia Agia Galini Olymbos Kuşadası Kastanies Kipi Datça Didymotiho a o Agios Nikolaos Rhodes Town Kos Town Marmaris Milas Pigadia Kattavia Lindos Hora (Naxos) Gavrio Chios Town Karystos Myrina Edirne Xanthi İzmir Bodrum Kavala Alexandroupoli Mytilini Town Komotini Iraklio Hania İstanbul Soufli Orestiada Plakias Ormenio KnossosMoni Arkadiou #\ #\ #\ Lesvos Rolling olive groves and cool pine forests (p579) Knossos Captivating restored Minoan palace (p427) Santorini (Thira) Culture merges with dramatic sunsets (p378) Rhodes' Old Town Walled medieval town with meandering alleyways (p475) Halkidiki Beautiful beaches and a holiday atmosphere (p248) Preveli Beach Sandy, lush beach with a picturesque monastery (p443) Hydra Town One of Europe's most striking island towns (p304) 0 100km 0 50miles#e 1000m 2000m 3000m 4000m 500m 0 ELEVATION ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Greece's Top 20 8 Experiencing the Acropolis 1There's a reason the Acropolis (p63) remains the quintessential landmark of Western civilisation – it is spectacular. Whether experienced during an early- morning stroll or from a dinnertime terrace with the Parthenon lit up and glorious, the Acropolis embodies a power and beauty that speak to all generations. Look beyond the Parthenon and you will find more in- timate spots like the exquisite Temple of Athena Nike, while the Acropolis Museum cleverly showcases the Acropolis' surviv- ing treasures. Meteora 2You're not likely to forget the first mo- ment the magnificent Meteora (p221) comes into view – soaring pillars of rock that jut heavenward, and a handful of mon- asteries at the summit (some dating from the 14th century). The rope ladders that once enabled the monks to reach the top have long been replaced by steps carved into the rock. Today these spectacular stone towers beckon rock climbers from around the world. Below: Moni Agias Varvaras Rousanou (p223) in the foreground, with Moni Agiou Nikolaou (p222) behind. DIMITRIOSTILIS/GETTYIMAGES© EDNORTON/GETTYIMAGES© 9 Ancient Delphi 3Arrive early to catch the magic of the sun's rays pouring over the Sanctuary of Athena Pronea at Delphi (pictured; p187), the centre of the ancient Greek world. Only three columns remain of the magnificent sanctu- ary, but that's enough to let your imagination soar. Nearby, the Sacred Way (p189) meanders past the Temple of Apollo where prophecies were uttered that sent armies to battle and made lovers swoon. Cutting-Edge Capital 4Life in Athens (p58) is a magnificent mash- up of the ancient and the contemporary. Beneath the majestic facades of vener- able landmarks, the city teems with life and creativ- ity. And Athenians love to get out and enjoy it all. Galleries and clubs hold the exhibitions, performances and installations of the city's booming arts scene. Trendy restaurants and humble tavernas rustle up fine, fine fare. Ubiquitous cafes fill with stylin' locals and moods run from punk rock to haute couture. Dis- cos and bars abound…and swing deep into the night. Santorini Sunsets 5There's more to San- torini (Thira; p378) than sunsets, but this remarkable island, shaped by the fire of prehistoric eruptions, has made the celebratory sunset its own. On summer evenings the cliff-top towns of Fira (p381) and Oia (pictured; p386) are packed with visitors awed by the vast blood red canvas of the cliff face as the sun struts its stuff. You can catch the sunset without the crowds from almost anywhere along the cliff edge. And if you miss sundown, you can always face east at first light for some fairly stunning sunrises too… PETERADAMS/GETTYIMAGES© MICHELEFALZONE/GETTYIMAGES© 3 4 10PLANYOURTRIPGreece'sTop20 Rhodes' Old Town 6Getting lost in Rhodes' Old Town (p475) is a must. Away from the crowds, you 'll find yourself meandering down cobbled alleyways with archways above and squares opening up ahead. In these hidden corners your imagination will take off with flights of medieval fancy. Explore the ancient Knights' Quarter, the old Jewish neigh- bourhood or the Turkish Quarter. Hear traditional live music in tiny tavernas or dine on fresh seafood at atmospheric outdoor restaurants. Wander along the top of the city's walls, with the sea on one side and a bird's-eye view into this living museum. MARTINCHILD/GETTYIMAGES© LARSRUECKER/GETTYIMAGES© 5 6 11 PLANYOURTRIPGreece'sTop20 Cretan Cuisine 7Waistlines be damned: Crete (p414) is the perfect place to indulge your appetite. The island's Mediterranean diet is known for its health ben- efits but it's the farm-fresh produce, aromatic herbs, straight-from-the-ocean seafood, soft, tangy cheese and some of the world's best virgin olive oil that make it legend- ary. Whether it's a bowl of snails, fresh artichokes, mussels or figs, the es- sence of this rustic cuisine is a balance of flavours. It's hard to beat traditional hand-spun filo, horta (wild greens) picked from a backyard garden and red mullet just hauled in. Island Hopping in the Cyclades 8 From the spirited nightlife and celebrity hideaways of Mykonos and Ios to the isolated sandy coasts of tiny, far-flung specks like Anafi, hop- ping through the Cyclades (p314) is a Greek experience not to be missed. Peppered with ancient ruins (try De- los; pictured; p341), mysti- cal castles (head to Naxos; p351), lush scenery and dramatic coastlines (visit Milos; p397), the islands are spread like Greek jewels across the sea. Speed over the Aegean on catamarans and sway on old-fashioned ferry boats. You won't regret a single saltwater- splashed second of it. Easter Festivities on Patmos 9While the Greek calen- dar is chock-full of festi- vals and holidays, by far the biggest event of the Greek Orthodox church is Easter. And the best place to ex- perience it is on Patmos (p535) in the Dodecanese. The island comes to life with fireworks, dancing in the streets, huge outdoor lamb roasts and plenty of ouzo shots. Begin by witness- ing the moving, candlelit processions of flower-filled biers through the capital, marking the start of the celebration on Good Friday. By Saturday night you'll be shouting Hristos Anesti (Christ is Risen) and crack- ing vibrant red-dyed eggs. DEA/G.DAGLIORTI/GETTYIMAGES©ULLSTEINBILD/GETTYIMAGES© STEVEOUTRAM/ALAMY© 87 9 12PLANYOURTRIPGreece'sTop20 13 Samaria Gorge 10The gaping gorge of Samaria (p454), starting at Omalos and run- ning down through an ancient riverbed to the Libyan Sea, is the most-trod canyon in Crete – and with good reason. The magnif- icent gorge is home to varied wildlife, soar- ing birds of prey and a dazzling array of wildflowers in spring. It's a full-day's walk (about six hours down), and you'll have to start early, but it certainly builds charac- ter. To get more solitude, try lesser-known gorges such as Imbros Gorge, which runs roughly parallel to Samaria. Colourful Thessaloniki 11Thessaloniki (p231) remains northern Greece's liveliest town, thanks to its universities, cultural scene, arts and night- life. Explore the old quarter, full of colourful, winding streets marked by white-plastered houses, lazy cats and Byzantine churches. Taste your way through the city's zaharo- plasteia (patisseries) for Ottoman-inspired sweets. Drink with throngs of students at stylish bars and clubs. Tour the galleries of one of Greece's most artistically fertile loca- tions and save time for first-rate museums. Thessaloniki has it all going on. JOHNELK/GETTYIMAGES©NIKOLANASTASIC/GETTYIMAGES© 10 11 PLANYOURTRIPGreece'sTop20 13 Hydra 12Everyone approaches Hydra (p303) by sea. There is no airport, there are no cars. As you sail in, you find, simply, a stun- ningly preserved stone village with white-gold houses filling a natural cove and hugging the edges of surrounding mountains. Then you join the ballet of port life. Sailboats, caïques and mega-yachts fill Hydra's quays and a people-watching potpourri fills the ubiquitous harbourside cafes. Here, a mere hour and a half from Athens, you'll find a great cappuc- cino, rich naval and architectural history, and the raw sea coast beckoning you for a swim. Preveli Beach 13Crete's Preveli Beach (p443) is one of Greece's most instantly recog- nisable stretches of sand. Bisected by a freshwater river and flanked by cliffs con- cealing sea caves, Preveli is lapped by the Libyan Sea, with clear pools of water along its palm-lined river bank that are perfect for cool dips. The beach lies under the sacred gaze of a magnificent monastery perched high above. Once the centre of anti-Ottoman resistance and later a shel- ter for Allied soldiers, this tranquil building offers magnificent views. KONSTANTINOS_K/GETTYIMAGES©CHRISCHRISTO/GETTYIMAGES© 12 13 14PLANYOURTRIPGreece'sTop20 Knossos 14Rub shoulders with the ghosts of the Minoans, a Bronze Age people that attained an astonishingly high level of civilisation and ruled large parts of the Aegean from their capital in Knossos (p427) 4000 years ago. Until the site's excavation in the early 20th century, an extraordinary wealth of frescoes, sculptures, jewellery, seals and other remnants lay buried under the Cretan soil. Despite a controversial partial reconstruction, Knossos remains one of the most important archaeological sites in the Mediterranean. The Zagorohoria 15After passing through a seeming- ly endless array of tunnels, the Egnatia Odos highway brings you into rugged Epiros, home of the Pindos Mountains and the Zagoro- horia (p283) – an immacu- lately preserved region of traditional villages spread along the ridges of Europe's deepest canyon, the Vikos Gorge. Here, the air is clear, fresh and cool, and the views astounding. You can explore the region by hiking or mountain bik- ing, or simply get cosy by the fire in one of the many rustic B&Bs dotting the region. Corfu 16The story of Corfu (p634) is written across the handsome facades of its main town's buildings. This is a place that crams a remarkable mix of architecture into its small compass. Stroll past Byzantine fortresses, neoclassical British build- ings of the 19th century, Parisian-style arcades, Or- thodox church towers, and the narrow, sun-dappled streets of the Venetian Old Town. Beyond town, Corfu is lush green mountains, rolling countryside and dramatic coastlines. And if the architecture and scen- ery aren't enough, come for the Italian-influenced food. MICHAELRUNKEL/GETTYIMAGES©RUTHTOMLINSON/GETTYIMAGES© KERENSU/GETTYIMAGES© 1514 16 15 PLANYOURTRIPGreece'sTop20 Halkidiki & Mt Athos 17The Halkidiki Peninsula (p248) combines great beaches, nightlife, camping spots and some serious history. Kassandra buzzes in summer with open- air discos and fleshed-out beaches, while Sithonia is quieter and reserved for escap- ists on its sandy shores. Ouranoupoli, on Athos, offers family-friendly beaches. This is also home to the heavily forested Mt Athos (p252) with its monastic community, which has preserved its Byzantine rituals for over 1000 years. Top: Moni Xenofondos (p255) Hiking the Mani 18Although it can no longer be de- scribed as 'remote', the Mani (p157) holds a magic unlike anywhere else in Greece. For centuries, the feuding families here were literally a law unto themselves, and this has contributed to the unique Ma- niot culture. The Mani's footpaths and land- scape beckon hikers from around the wor...